Subject: Barge boat trip France
Location: Canal du Midi, France
Title: What an awful experience - do not recommend CROWN BLUE LINE/CONNOISSEUR or Narbonne to Trebes route
We just returned from 5 wonderful weeks in Europe with our three children. It
was a trip of a lifetime, except our arrangements renting an overpriced ($3700)
for one week boat to explore the Canal du Midi in France. It was an extremely
disappointing experience due to:
1. Route of the canal - the towns are not towns - difficult to buy food and
water (Narbonne to Trebes)
2. The Route is too short for 7 nights - I think we were just bringing the boat
back to home port from another rental - it was a service to the company- we
should have been paid!
3. It was extremely hot and very uncomfortable. It%26#39;s too bad you can%26#39;t jump
into the canal, but all the boats flush the toilet waste into the water, so it%26#39;s
very dirty. Maybe a boat trip in Germany would have been better - no toilet
waste in the water there.
4. The boat and the bikes we rented were suboptimal. The bikes were all faulty
and dangerous for the kids. The boat%26#39;s refrigerator was broken, but we didn%26#39;t
figure that out until after all our food spoiled after the first night. The
bathrooms didn%26#39;t work - one completely not operational and the other didn%26#39;t
flush correctly, leaving an awful stink in the bedroom.
5. We were told this was the most beautiful part of the canal, through great
towns to explore, and that we could buy fruit and produce from all the lock
keepers (none of the lock keepers sell produce along this route - we once bought
a basket of tomatos). We were lucky to find any food establishments or grocery
stores. Once we had to ride the broken bikes 4km to find any food.
6. We chose to cut the trip short - 3 nights instead of 7.
7. We met a Dutch family that had the same boat, but for 10 days and had paid
$1500 USD less!
8. It%26#39;s an active trip - not much relaxing going through all the locks. We%26#39;re
an active family, but we were planning for a week of relaxation.
9. The company that sold this trip - CROWN BLUE LINE/CONNOISSEUR would not
refund any of our money, stating that they had never had problems before.
Beware of any barge boat arrangements you make. The internet sights are a
little deceiving and the sales reps do not provide truthful recommendations for
routes, etc. They are out to make money. So, if you are considering a barge
boat trip in France, we have learned that you should a cooler time of year,
chose a route in the north, or choose a different country that has cleaner
water, if swimming is important to you and your family.
We love France and wish we had held on to our rental car and spent the week
touring other parts instead of stuck with our boat nightmare. Imagine the
beautiful chateau or hotel we could have stayed in for $528 per night instead.
Nice, Aix, Loire Valley and Paris were fabulous!
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Sabbatical,
It is sad to hear of your disappointing canal cruise. In the past, Mrs. Sarastro and I have traveled most of this route on three separate occasions (using Crown Blue twice). For those who may be interested in a similar cruise in the future and are concerned about your comments may I offer the following?
1. I completely agree that the section from the Canal du Midi to Narbonne (technically the Canal de la Robine) does not have great tourist appeal, particularly to a first time traveler. I was unaware (until your post) that Crown Blue even offered this route as a suggested itinerary. Interestingly, I was unable to find in any of Crown Blue’s literature a one way rental suggestion from Narbonne to either Castelnaudary or Port Cassafieres. Narbonne is only suggested as an out and back destination from either of their above bases.
2. As I have written many times here on the forum, a much better 7 (or 10) day itinerary would be Castelnaudary to Port Cassafieres.
3. You do not state the month in which you traveled, but summer heat can be a problem. I believe several of Crown Blue’s boats do have air conditioning (the Royal Classique for example). Alternatively, incessant rain can be a problem in Burgundy and Brittany.
4. I have had an occasional maintenance issue with a boat but a call to Crown Blue’s base always was answered with a quick dispatch of one of their mechanics, many of whom are English.
5. In checking Crown Blue’s current price list, I am surprised to hear of the price you paid for a one week rental. Of course you do not mention the type of boat you rented but for a family of 5, there are many cheaper alternatives. The dollar does not go very far right now in Europe but Crown Blue does offer a large number of rental discounts, some of them sizable (up to 25%).
6. The number of locks is clearly indicated in the company’s brochure. In my opinion the number in the Midi is nominal. One 7 day route on the Nivernais canal for example has 127. Travel one week along the Canal from Rhone to Sete, one has only 2 through which to pass. It has been my experience that children (not toddlers of course) love helping to negotiate the locks or at least watching the boat rise and descend in the lock.
In total I have rented from Crown Blue on seven separate occasions and never experienced these types of problems (I shall agree that the rental bikes can be problematical). As someone who has traveled virtually all of the French waterways, I consider the route from Castelnaudary to Port Cassafieres leaving time to explore the Etang de Thau at week’s end to be the best route for the first time boater. It would be interesting to know through whom you made your reservations as the route you took and the price you paid raise questions?
One thing can be learned from your experiences however; either initiating a quick post here on the forum or searching the previous posts of others can yield much valuable information about what one may expect when exploring new destinations.
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I realize my reply is over a year after the original post -- but I have been researching for a future boat hire in May 2008 and my interest was piqued with Sabbatical%26#39;s post since I%26#39;ve been considering CB and Connosseur. I DID find a Narbonne - Trebes one-way cruise on in the 2007 catalogue of Connosseur, the %26quot;sister%26quot; company of Crown Blue.
I%26#39;ve been puzzled by the doability of various %26quot;suggested%26quot; cruises in the 2007 catalogues. CONNOSSEUR suggests a 1-week roundtrip cruise of 176 km (Trebes-Beziers-Trebes) with 50 locks and also Sabbatical%26#39;s %26quot;infamous%26quot; 1-week one-way cruise of 69 km from Narbonne to Trebes (or vice-versa) with 29 locks. I%26#39;m seriously considering CROWN BLUE%26#39;s 1-week one-way cruise of 157 km from Castelnaudary to Port Cassafieres with 64(!) locks. Apparently 69 km is not long enough, but how relaxing is 157 kms?
Since this is the first boating adventure for our group (of 4 adults) I wonder if we are going to be constantly checking our schedule and watches to make it to Port Cassafieres in time. We ARE traveling the off-season -- the last week of May 2008 -- but am I wrong to worry we might have to pass on that trip to Minerva or pick up the pace a notch or two in order to arrive on time?
I checked the 2007 rates -- though the cheapest rental for a family of 5 at Connoseur during August is $2300... it is DEFINITELY possible to rent a nicer boat for $3700 (and more)
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June 2008--
My husband, my in-laws and I just returned from a trip on the Canal du Midi and had a wonderful time. We booked through Crown Blue Line and had a boat called %26quot;Calypso%26quot;. It was plenty big enough for 4 adults, with one spare room for suitcases. I highly recommend doing this if you can. There were two fully functioning bathrooms and a great refrigerator (reference to Sabbatical%26#39;s review...)
Our trip was for 7 days, beginning in Castelnaudary and ending in Homps. The pace we chose to cruise at daily gave us plenty of time to reach our destination. We actually could have travelled further, perhaps, and doubled back to Homps, but my husband injured his foot and we needed to get it looked at.
It was about 85-90 degrees daily, but a terrific breeze blew at all times, and the plane trees overhead offered much break from the sun. There were fans in each room below (and some boats do offer a/c), so it only got a little warm in the evenings as we locked up for sleep. Each morning, however, we woke up to cool weather.
The bikes we rented were fine, and allowed us opportunity to pedal into towns along the way for food (Bram was great for grocery shopping).
Plan to stay in Carcassonne for 2 days, as there is a lot to see. Go sit in Place Carnot and have a drink at Le Bar Felix or Le Lonchamps and watch the world go by.
For dinner, I highly recommend L%26#39;Ecurie, a former stable! Great ambiance. www.restaurant-lecurie.fr
In Trebes, go sit along the canal and have a drink and a meal at the Trattoria Napoli. Croissants from the boulangerie were sumptuous. We tried to go for a swim at the local piscine (pool), but my husband had with him %26quot;trunks Americain%26quot;, not a Speedo, and they refused him entry! Too bad...it was hot!
Overall, cruising is very relaxing. The locks are a little bit of work, but if you don%26#39;t know what you are in for beforehand, you did not do your homework.
Go for it!!
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ClaireGJ:
Thanks for your very descriptive post. Even tho the original poster has probably departed for greener pastures, it is wonderfully refreshing to hear about a marvelous experience. For those of us who have previously discovered the magic of canal cruising in France, it is heartening to know that others too have found the thrill.
Thanks again, and looking forward to an equally pleasant experience on the C. du Midi in September/October.
Good cruising!
N-B
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It had been several years since we had traveled on the Canal du Midi so here we are, presently at Capestang traveling east to Port Cassafieres.
I have previously addressed the original post in this thread but would like to add that is certainly is good to be back on the French waterways: the scenery is unparalleled, the weather has been excellent, and the food unforgettable, particularly the fresh produce.
We used Crown Blue (now Le Boat) and choose the Calypso, an very well designed boat and very comfortable for 6-8 people. One excellent feature is a large sized refrigerator which really helps keeping groceries and drinks cool. In general the galley was well equipped.
Unfortunately, the maintenance and overall condition of the vessel is disappointing: toilets that are very difficult to flush, shower water that pulses scalding hot mixed seconds later with cold, and mooring cords extremely frayed and knotted (knotted ropes hang up on mooring posts). The ropes were later changed at a Le Boat base in Trebes but the boat should have never been allowed to depart the originating base with equipment in such poor condition.
I am noticing a large number of boats in bases and not out on the canal. Having spoken to several base managers and lock keepers, business this year has been very slow.
I recommend those interested in canal travel to look into France Fluvial for rental information. Their boats appear very well maintained and well designed.
For information:
http://www.france-fluviale.com
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It%26#39;s been 10 months since my last post when I was planning my Canal du Midi trip for May 2008. Originally our crew was to be 1 couple and 2 women, but by departure date, we were 3 women, all in our 60s with no boating experience. I can now share some lessons.
Lesson #1: 4 people, or more, would make the going through the locks easier. With only 3, we worked VERY hard and “uneasiness” was a common feeling. Someone with even a little boating experience would%26#39;ve been comforting... but we managed.
Lesson #2: going DOWNSTREAM is easier because at the locks, a crewmember needs only to step onto the top of the lock from the boat deck. Going UPSTREAM, prior to entering the lock, the boat needs to drop off on shore a crewmember who then scrambles up a 10-15 foot embankment to the top of the lock to secure the ropes needed in the transition.
Lesson #3: Understand the concept that driving a boat is NOT like driving a car. In a car, you slow down in dangerous situations. On a boat, the more you slow down, the less control you have steering the boat.
Lesson #4: Don%26#39;t be in a hurry to leave the departure base until you are thoroughly familiar with maneauvering your boat -- how to moor it, and what happens when you back up.
Lesson #5: The one-way, one-week Carcassonne to Agde itinerary - 75 miles and 36 locks - was perfect for our first-time boat trip, the downstream direction would have been even better. We rented a Tarpon 37N through the Dutch company www.holidayboat.net which partners with the French company Nautic based in Agde FR. From the States I dealt IN ENGLISH by email with holidayboat’s Frans van Houten. The boat was clean, well-stocked, and everything worked -- but we went at the beginning of the busy season. I imagine that at the destination base with only 6 hours before the next occupants arrive, a lot can be overlooked and only compounds as the season progresses.
Lesson #6: Never take the weather for granted. I envisioned sunny, lazy days of boating from one village to the next. Instead we encountered incessant rain and thunder/lightning storms for the first 3 days and were cold and wet during half the trip. Nevertheless, the beauty of this gorgeous waterway was unmistakable.
Lesson #7: Not everyone adheres to good manners, but for every boatman that cuts you off and ignores the queue with a shrug of his shoulders, there are nine others who will offer friendly assistance. An Irishman pulled me out from the slippery shore of the Canal when I was dragged into the water by a mooring rope after jumping ashore.
Lesson #8: It%26#39;s a good idea to have cancellation insurance and also bow-thruster damage insurance, especially if you have no boating experience... (On the larger boats, the bow-thruster enables the front of the boat to move side-to-side.)
Lesson #9: You will see things you will never forget. One boat of six 300-pound men AND women all went topless(!)when the sun finally came out on the fourth day.
We completed our journey in Carcassonne with minimal damage. Those dangling, cushioning devices that protect the boat are called fenders. We only lost 3 out of 16 on the boat @ 28 Euros each. Gas for the week was 230 Euros. The train station is within walking distance of the Nautic base in Carcassonne. We rode the train (14 Euros) one hour to Toulouse and taxied (35 Euros) to a motel out at the Toulouse Airport to facilitate our early morning flight the next day to Paris and the States.
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Great to hear the last two posts...obviously everyone%26#39;s experience will not be the same, but with the right attitude, common sense, a sense of humor (FYI my husband%26#39;s foot injury happened when he fell off the boat and into the canal, jamming it against the tree roots), and an adventuresome spirit, you can%26#39;t help but have a good time. A bad day on the canal still beats a good day at work!!
Bon voyage to those about to try it!
~Claire
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I would like to add our experiences, we just got back from a week on the Canal du Midi (July 6-12, 2008). We took the Castelnaudary to Port Cassafieres section of the trip.
We used Crown Blue and had a boat that slept 12, the boat was called the Challenger 1, it was built in 1991 and needed major work.
I would give Crown Blue low marks for their boats maintenance. Missing handles on some windows, also many couldn%26#39;t be locked. Water leaking into the corner of a bed. Toilets not functioning correctly. Shower heads in impossible to use places, erratic water pressure and temperatures made showering a challenge. The engine wouldn%26#39;t turn off at one point and we called to have it fixed. As with previous comments, they came out quickly to fix. But the biggest problem was the hydraulic steering was in poor repair which made driving the boat that much more difficult. We had to constantly turn the wheel to the starboard side to keep going straight. I reported it but was not asked to explain the problem to anyone who might actually fix it.
Blue Crown also had lost part of our records. Take copies of everything you have sent them so you don%26#39;t need to refill out forms.
They also conveniently lost our starting engine hours which is used to calculate the amount of fuel you end up paying for. They gave us the %26quot;average%26quot; of 35 hours. I would recommend writing it down yourself and if it%26#39;s less than 35 you can show them that. If it%26#39;s more, you can see if they have the number or not. I felt like they are running a bit of a fuel scam on this.
We rented bikes and which was nice. CHECK them first, we had one that didn%26#39;t have a working rear break.
We had 3 generations on this boat and it was not had for the most advanced generation to get around on this boat, we ended up bandaging one for 3 different cuts she sustained while moving about the cabin.
We saw better boats from different lines that looked either newer or better maintained with better layouts. I%26#39;d shop around.
The canal is unfortunately polluted as noted already. You don%26#39;t need gloves to handle the ropes to keep from blistering your hands but you might want them to keep your hands clean. We washed our hands after going through every lock.
The canal is beautiful. Great bike lane next to most of the canal. We found it easy to ride faster than the boat. Locks are easier to navigate going down stream. There is plenty of food along the way for either picnics or places to eat, with a bit of planning. We did run into one area where we were inundated with flies. I wish we had brought a fly swatter as it took days to get rid of all the fly that got into the boat.
Other things I wish we had brought along: a couple of sharp knives and a couple of thin cutting boards. We had several very dull knives and one small cutting board. Something to cover food until we were ready to eat.
We did bring a fan that was nice to keep us cool on some of the warmer days.
I would do another trip like this again. I%26#39;d do more research on the boat I was getting, insuring a newer boat with a nice layout. It%26#39;s was nice to sit up top and watch the world go buy as we floated down the canal.
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Subject- Planning a holiday on the Canal Du Midi.
I am planning a holiday on the Canal Du Midi this summer, intending to go sometime in June. However I have no idea which route to take, and can%26#39;t seem to get any information with regard to the routes off Emerald Star. We are a family of 4, 2 adults, and two boys aged 12, and 17.Obviously I would like to pick the most scenic and interesting route, with plenty to see, and somethings along the way to keep two boys interested! Would it be best to take a route that was also near the beaches, because I am wondering might kids get bored with just cruising along and sight seeing, or is there generally enough to keep them busy? Perhaps you could specify the must see attractions along the route, and finally I am very concerned to hear about the emptying of the toilets into the canal etc, have many people found this to be a problem? I have been quoted a price of 1,867.50 euro for a week in June, is this a good price?
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I re-read my %26quot;lessons learned%26quot; post of July 8, 2008, to see if I%26#39;d changed my mind on anything and it all pretty much remains true. In the initial planning, I was concerned with the length of the Castelnaudary – Port Cassafieres itinerary and whether it was doable in a week for first-time boaters with no boating experience.
I am glad we opted to do the Carcassonne - Agde itinerary which is offered only by a few companies. We chose Nautic http://www.nautic.fr/us/(but booked them through English-speaking www.holidayboat.net, though it seems Nautic has an English language site now)
The Carcassonne-Agde itinerary had 36 locks rather than the 64 on the Castelnaudary – Port Cassafieres itinerary.
I found the chart on this website helpful creme-de-languedoc.com/Languedoc/activities/…
in finding which docks were headquarters for which boat companies. For example, Crown Blue has facilities only at these docks - Castelnaudary, Port Cassafieres and St. Gilles.
I want to clarify the way the toilets work on the boats. They do NOT flush into the canal (Mon dieu!), rather canal water is pumped into the toilet bowl by each user and then flushed into a holding waste tank until the tank is emptied at destination.
You%26#39;ll probably want to rent bicycles for the boys -- adults, too, if so inclined. Can%26#39;t swim in the dirty water of the canal. But I think they%26#39;ll be kept busy enough helping to get through the locks. Send them out in the morning to get fresh bread! You might consider getting a DC to AC inverter (with cigarette lighter-type plug) in order to recharge any portable video games they might bring along.
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